Tempting kebabs, scented biryani, and fluffy, ethereal desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has forever been a food lovers' paradise, with locals and visitors equally praising its superb cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
In a recent announcement, UNESCO recognised it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – adding it to a exclusive roster of world cities and igniting hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's peerless food. With this designation, it enters a worldwide network of over 400 cities across more than 100 countries focused on promoting "innovation as a driver of development that sustains urban life".
The accolade "is a testament to its deep-rooted culinary traditions and vibrant food ecosystem," as stated by a representative from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to secure a position in this coveted list of 70 cities internationally.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The recognition for this historic city is little surprise to its residents or avid food lovers. Many share the view that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO designation, this beloved, lively, and eclectic city – the administrative center of India's biggest state – is finally in the spotlight for what has always defined its soul: an unparalleled love for food.
"'What will be cooked, the method of preparation' is a continued dialogue from morning until going to bed in most homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are often assessed by the quality of food that is produced in your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The City of the Nawabs – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th Century affluent Muslim rulers – is famed for its tender kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were invented, evolved, and raised to extraordinary levels in their imperial kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were epicenters of gastronomic creativity, blending Persian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were developed. Legend has it that the mutton galouti was devised to feed an elderly nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His culinary artists minced the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so soft that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the greatest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, leisurely heat, with the container's cover securely sealed with dough.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
Besides the well-known kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also created a vast array of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only celebrates fresh harvests but also offers the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Almost on many street corners, there are little shops and stalls – lesser-known treasures that are immensely loved by the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, large gatherings start assembling from 5 am at a renowned tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, served in clay glasses, along with incredibly soft buns lathered with freshly churned white butter.
In the morning, one can visit a unpretentious joint situated in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was established, the place is still in great demand for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also offers remarkable seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert available in the winter. The technique of making it is scientific and involved. The vendor beats the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its incredible frothy texture.
On crisp mornings, street vendors can be seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Some though say that their younger generation do not want to take up the craft.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's immense food legacy puts it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will be realized only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – shaped by family-run food businesses, from modest street carts to bustling restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is anticipated, will motivate more people globally to learn these tales and travel to the city to savour the food wonders of Lucknow.
